Flying into Santiago de Chile across the impressively high peaks of the Andes was quite a surprise. Coming from the rich, verdant and multi-rivers of Argentina to what, from the air, appeared an almost barren, brown landscape. Some terracing on mountain slopes suggested vineyards. Having become accustomed to the virtually flat and green landscapes of Argentina and the agricultural area of Uruguay we visited, the dramatic change in landscape came as quite a surprise.
We are only stopping off for one night here in order to take a flight in the morning to Calama, in order for us to get to San Pedro de Atacama where we will spend a night prior to being picked up for the Bolivia adventure.
Flying up to Calama near the border with Bolivia – a flight of just under 2 hours, the landscape changes from sharp peaks to more rolling hills. As far as the eye can see, the land appears just as arid as that around Santiago, rust, browns, reds, suggesting mineral rich earth with no indication that it is inhabited. More reminiscent of a moonscape rather than a landscape.
Arriving at Calama, we needed to get transport to San Pedro. There are several companies providing transfers: 15,000 pesos one way or 25,000 for a return ticket. Despite it being the cheaper option, you really do want to take the return as the transfer company will log your drop-off and collection points in San Pedro, making it super easy to get picked up for the return to Calama. Bearing in mind that although there is lots of housing in Calama, there is virtually nothing else. San Pedro is about 90 minutes drive along a decent asphalt road.
We were dropped off at our venue for the night; Vicuña Lodge, a surprisingly well-appointed, small venue of about 6 rooms, all at ground level inside a locked compound. Internet, electricity, shower, small swimming pool, dining area for breakfast if you are there at that time, a snack bag prepared for you if you are leaving early (no AC though).
Lily, the owner, was very friendly and couldn’t have been more helpful. To the extent that when we returned after the trip, our pick up was from here, although we were not staying here, Lily invited us in out of the sun to wait for the transfer and offered us the use of the toilet if we needed. Certainly worth a recommendation.
San Pedro, is a dry, sleepy and dusty town, the roads are unmade, its hot and the wind whips up the dust and blows it everywhere. Plenty of little shops and bars and a cambio where we managed to negotiate a slightly better rate on Bolivianos.
In the evening, the town transforms into a colourful and lively venue, all the shutters come off the shops selling everything from tourist tat to expensive items in locked glass display cabinets. A wide range of restaurants, many with live music playing, makes for a really pleasant way to spend an evening. (Little did we know that we would look back on just how pleasant this evening has been). best
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